The kitten, know everything!

Required material

  • Two cat bowls:
  • one for food
  • the other one for water (preferably use a water fountain; pay attention to the replacement of the filters)
  • Special kitten kibble AND wet food; start with brands adopted by the breeder
  • A litter pan (1.5 times the size of the cat), some cat litter (prefer the same litter as that of the breeder at the beginning) and a litter scooper
  • A comfortable sleeping place and (an) in high shelter(s)
  • A cat tree
  • A scratching post
  • A box / a transport bag
  • Toys
  • A "maintenance kit" including brushes, "guillotine" clamp or equivalent and lotions to clean the eyes, nose & ears
AND ABOVE ALL a maximum of love and time to spend with him; observation will be your best ally to know if your life companion is doing well.

The health of the cat

  • at 2 months: Typhus & Coryza (respiratory disease involving 2 viruses: feline calcivirus and feline herpesvirus)
  • at 3 months: Typhus, Coryza & Leukosis* + Rabies & passport if going abroad; to be done 21 days before departure
  • at 4 months: Typhus, Coryza & Leukosis
  • from 12 months: Typhus, Coryza & Leukosis (+ Rabies) as an annual booster
* The leukosis vaccine can be done from 8 weeks old, but is only recommended when cats go out or do have contact with other cats than those from the family.
from 1 month to 3 months: every 15 days
from 3 to 6 months: once a month
from 6 months: every 3 months
External parasiticides:
all year round and to be renewed depending on the duration of the product's effectiveness
Food (in general & for sterilized cats):
from 1 to 6 months: kibbles for kitten
from 6 months: kibble for adults (to avoid gaining weight)
must be between 38°C and 39°C depending on the cat’s activity; outside these values ​​we can speak about hypothermia or fever

Some advice

Litter pan:
  • place it in a quiet place
  • away from the food & rest area
  • clean it every day (to avoid proliferation of germs & bacteria)
  • do not forget to disinfect it from time to time
Water & food:
  • your cat must always have clean & fresh water at its disposal
  • also leave kibble available so that he can eat whenever he wants to, a cat makes several small meals a day
  • do not suddenly change his diet, this could cause diarrhea, make a change over 2/3 weeks by incorporating his usual diet into the new one
  • consult the list of toxic foods (see “the dangers”)
Your behavior:
  • be consistent: be clear and logical in your decision-making about what is and what isn’t allowed; don’t change your mind
  • be firm, persistent but gentle because you won't get anything by force with your cat
  • act at time T: a cat understands a prohibition only at the exact moment of doing things; afterwards, it’s too late; it’s useless scolding him
  • practice positive reinforcement: when your cat does something "good", praise him and pet/distract him
  • comb your cat regularly, this will prevent the ingestion of dead hair that causes the formation of hairballs in his stomach; which leads to vomiting and digestive disorders
AND ESPECIALLY be present or make sure he has a companion so that he does not feel alone (another cat/dog…)

Organize his arrival:

Choose D-day:
  • you must be present and available during the first days in his new home
  • give him time to discover his environment, put him in a room with his toy for 1 or 2 days without too many people rushing on him; follow him while talking to him and pet him from time to time
  • play with him to "replace" his brothers & sisters while respecting his rest/sleep times
  • show him his litter box, the place where his bowls are & his resting place
How to deal with other animals:
  • the approach must always be done gently, in your presence, only intervene in case of aggression
  • it is essential that your cat has the possibility of hiding if he is frightened or worried, that’s why it’s so important of having set up a shelter for him (in height or a hiding place)

The dangers, be careful

to toys:
  • of fishing rod type (risk of strangulation, risk of getting tangled around the cat -> store it well so that it is not accessible when you are not there)
  • likely to "lose" some parts (a mouse's eye, some plastic parts that can break, children's legos, ...) with elastics (including those of cat trees) because they eat them
to plants, foods & toxic products:
domestic dangers:
  • electrical cables & wires of all kinds (charging, headphones, etc.); try to hide them as best as possible by running them along the walls, table legs...
  • do not leave plugged-in electrical appliances within the reach of your cat -> risk of electrocution if he bites the cables
  • do not leave your cat alone in the kitchen when there is something on the fire. Kittens are unaware that they can burn themselves or spill the pans while walking on the kitchen worktop.
  • pay attention to the strings of garbage bags -> prefer bags with a sliding tie + close the lid of your trash can so that your kitten can’t catch waste that is dangerous for him
  • never leave the windows open or a tilt and turn system without protection! There exist protective nets or grids to be fixed on the frames
  • never leave medication lying around, even a cream
  • check that your cat is not hiding in your washing machine or dryer before switching on
  • put away your sewing kit, the ingestion of a thread could be fatal to a cat
  • etc.
if you let him out, provide him with a secure environment (cat area or fenced garden with a net); I strongly recommend not letting him walk "in the middle of the nature" because the life expectancy (on average) of cats going out is only of 5 years